National Pilgrimage to St. Wenceslas

 

Prince Wenceslas was a son of Prince Vratislav and probably of his only wife Drahomíra, who was a daughter of the prince of Havolanů (Slavs from the lowland of Elbe). The first historically documented Přemyslid prince Bořivoj I. and his wife St. Ludmila were Wenceslas’ grandparents. Wenceslas took the prince’s seat after his father’s death but his mother continued to rule until he became an adult. Prince Wenceslas supported the propagation of Christianity (e.g. by the foundation of Rotunda of St. Vitus in Prague Castle in 929) and by the consolidation of the power the Přemyslids’ dynasty had in Bohemia. He was fighting with the Roman-Germanic king Henry I the Fowler. In 935, Wenceslas was murdered either by his brother Boleslav I. or by members of Boleslav’s retinue. His relics were moved from St. Boleslav to Prague Castle in 938, and there they rest in Church of St. Vitus.

 

 

Since 960s Wenceslas has been worshipped as a saint, the first St. Wenceslas legends appeared (in old Slavic as well as Latin) and churches dedicated to St. Wenceslas have been built since the first half of the 11th century. This gave rise to a national patron, “an eternal prince” ruling “the eternal state”, who “entrusted” his power to his temporary representatives. St. Wenceslas respect and tradition linking both Christian and state symbolism were established. Wenceslas’ face appeared on seals of princes and kings, on coins, “the heir to Bohemia” was invoked by St. Wenceslas’ chorale, which stood for a medieval Czech anthem. His name was held by kings of Přemyslids’ lineage; an ensuing King and Caesar Charles IV. , who linked St. Wenceslas with the highest token of state sovereignty – with crown jewels, was christened by it. St. Wenceslas’ crown has been from then on only bestowed on the earthly rulers.

 

St. Wenceslas also became a patron of the university in Prague, its oldest extant sealing stick depicts him together with the kneeling founder Charles IV.
Prague Castle – which was for some time called Castle of St. Wenceslas – and the Cathedral with its magnificent Chapel of St. Wenceslas became the centre of St. Wenceslas’ respect and tradition. Henry (Jindřich) Parléř created a statue of St. Wenceslas for the chapel in 1373. The prince and saint in one wears armour and a cloak, a duke hat, a coat-of-arms in his left hand and a spear in his right one. His slightly bowed head has a dreamy expression. All of that corresponds with the intention to depict the prince as a benevolent ruler.

 

Even Prague’s Hussites called for Wenceslas’ “help” when they were clutched by crusaders in 1420. After devastating Thirty Years’ War in the 17th century, St. Wenceslas as a saviour was embodied into a comforting myth that an army would emerge from Blaník hill when Bohemia is in the worst of a trouble. In times of Czech National Revival he became a symbol of individuality and originality of Czech nation. Statues were built for him, he appeared in songs, literary texts, paintings, he was the addressee of ardent prayers, sites were named after him. One of his statues stood in Prague’s Horse Market, and therefore Karel Havlíček in 1848 suggested calling the place St. Wenceslas Square. The seed was sown – and so the most famous Czech square is called after St. Wenceslas, now with the statue by Myslbek - depicting the Prince and Czech patron riding the horse. The square happened to be the site of many rather dramatic events which greatly influenced or characterized the fate of Czech national society in the 19th and 20th centuries.

The abuse of St. Wenceslas’ tradition during occupation caused certain hesitation after the war. The communist regime then definitely forced it down by its stress on the “revolutionary” tradition of Czech history but the feelings of the public could not be quite covered. St. Wenceslas continued to live in the minds of Czech people as their prince, pious patron of the country and respectable personality. This nation-wide affinity by the tradition of St. Wenceslas was decidedly evident during revolutionary events in 1988-90 when the monument of St. Wenceslas in Wenceslas Square became the centre of numerous demonstrations and celebrations, even during the upcoming decade, when the newly emerged independent Czech Republic was searching for its historic roots. In 2000, the day of St. Wenceslas’ death – 28th September – was pronounced a bank holiday, “The Day of Czech Nationhood”.

 

In 2002, the collegiate canonry iniciated the first meeting of Brandýs nad Labem - Stará Boleslav city council and the Czech Bishop Conference in order to introduce a cult of National St. Wenceslas' fair.

In 2003, the idea iniciated in 2002 arose arose of taking St. Wenceslas’ divine service in Stará Boleslav out of the church onto public area and open it as a manifestation of St. Wenceslas’ tradition, restoring the fame of fairs in Stará Boleslav nation-wide. There is a wide range of Stará Boleslav’s citizens who deserve acknowledgements – namely Jaroslav Chlup and Petr Baum, Petr Zemek, Markéta Bahníková, Jaroslav Bayer, the Nováks and others – it was their effort that made St. Wenceslas’ festivities possible as a continuation of a fair’s tradition in the form of the saint’s name day public celebration by cultural programmes and folk entertainment, which is inseparable part of every fair. However, the clerical, i.e. the most substantial part of the tradition, stayed separated and hidden within the walls of the church. National St. Wenceslas’ tradition, in accordance with the content of the fair tradition lasting millennia, explicitly accented the clerical aspect of the fair as elementary, main, determining and public. It has not been always accepted by everyone but it represents the variety of forms and ways of grasping the religion. Today, we want to believe that the fair has already overcome various existential dangers due to its deep roots in public life, the attention of official circles, massive public and media support, with the most significant regular live broadcast of Czech TV.

In days from 26th to 28th September 2009 the Czech Republic became a place of visit of His Holiness the Pope Benedict XVI. According to a plan of this pastoral and state visit which was realized in reaction to an invitation of the Czech Bishops Conference and the President, Holy Father visited Prague, Brno and Stará Boleslav.

Before the holy service with around 50 thousand pilgrims began, the pope visited St. Wenceslas’ basilica, where he prayed on the place of saint prince’s death. Holy Father used Popemobile to get to the place where the divine service took place, to Proboštská louka (Provostal meadow).
To celebrate the St. Wenceslas’ name day, St. Wenceslas’ ceremony is held every year in both temples in Stará Boleslav, in St. Wenceslas’ basilica as well as in the pilgrim temple of the Assumption of the Virgin.

Concelebrated pilgrim holy service in Mariánské Square is the main part, with the Prague’s archbishop as a chair. It is traditionally accompanied by a rich cultural and entertainment programme, which takes place in the historical centre of the city as well as in the attached park called Lázně Houštka.

 

Brandýs nad Labem-Stará Boleslav used to be two cities, now connected, situated in the district of Prague-east that became a natural centre of the region. It has 16 314 citizens (data taken in 2006). The municipality was founded in 1960 by uniting Brandýs nad Labem and Stará Boleslav administratively, and it has the second longest official name in the Czech Republic (the first among cities). Historic centres of Brandýs nad Labem and Stará Boleslav have become municipal relic zones. The city stretches on both banks of the river Elbe. From the side of Brandýs, there are steep slopes coming down to the platform of lowlands with a deep gorge shaped by Vinořský brook which flows into the Elbe. The side of Stará Boleslav is a bottom land which was in past times filled by a few pools and distributaries and which was shaped by frequent floods. There are remnants of pristine flood-plain forest.

 

The chateau in the place of gothic castle built in 1300 (1306) is a foremost sight in Brandýs nad Labem. It was confiscated by the state in 1919 and it has belonged to the city since 1995. There is a mill situated under the chateau, and a stone bridge built in 1603 with the statue of St. Jan Nepomucký and a baroque brewery that was constructed according to the project by K. I. Dienzenhofer. Another gothic site is St. Laurence’s church with extant fresco paintings from 14th century that was later rebuilt in baroque style, together with St. Peter’s church. Number of sites was built in renaissance times - catholic parish St. Paul’s Retortion church, originally the board of Bohemian Brethren, constructed by Matteo Borgorelli in years 1541-1542, furthermore some dwelling houses in the square and , above all, the executioner’s room decorated with letter graffiti. A deanery and a bell tower built in 1773 are the examples of baroque architecture. Local Jewish cemetery founded in 1568 is one of the oldest cemeteries in the country.

Situated in the region of Prague-East, Stará Boleslav has formed one of the parts of Brandýs nad Labem-Stará Boleslav city since 1960. Historic core of the city has been a city site zone since 1992. Stará Boleslav has also become one of our oldest pilgrim spots that is connected with St. Wenceslas’ tradition and the Marian cult.

 

At the beginning of 10th century, in times of Spytihněv’s rule (895-915) the rampart was originated there as a part of guarding castles of the historic Přemyslids’ domain. It was settled on the confluence of the Elbe and Jizera rivers. The rampart was divided into acropolis and front castle, and it was surrounded by massive brick wall with a moat, the remnants of which were discovered during archaeological survey. The built-up area was probably formed among others by several courts belonging to a prince and his company. There was at least one church christened to St. Cosmas and Damian in the 10th century. The Czech prince St. Wenceslas was murdered by the hand of his brother Boleslav in front of its door. His body then lay there for several succeeding years before it was moved to the Prague’s cathedral.

 

After 1039, a prince Břetislav I. introduced a roman St. Wenceslas’ basilica on the place of martyr death of his predecessor, together with adjacent collegiate canonry of St. Cosmas and Damian, which is in this country the oldest institution of this kind.

 

At the end of 11th century the latest another two churches were built in the rampart area. One of them, of unknown christening (presumably of Virgin Mary), was discovered by archaeologists in the area of today’s Wenceslas Square, his ground plan was marked into the paving. Another one is up to the present day existing church of St. Clement, which was possibly preceded by its older wooden predecessor.

 

In 13th century, the canonry takes the majority of the castle acropolis; in the area of front castle, in the vicinity of today’s Mariánské Square, there was built a moderate town. It was owned by a ruler who deposited it to noblemen of Michalovice in 1262, later founders of Brandýs’ fortress.

 

In the course of 14th century, St. Wenceslas’ basilica underwent a gothic reconstruction. Caesar Charles IV., who visited Boleslav several times in person, had a new rampart built. The new rampart replaced the older one built in the 10th century. Two gates were also a part of new fortification, one of them has been in its rebuilt form preserved until today.

 

Furthermore, Boleslav was on 25th May 1420 visited by Caesar Zikmund and his wife, a year later, however, the canonry fled to Žitava and so Boleslav is, as a result, seized and destroyed by Hussites (1421). Even the end of fighting did not bring prosperity to the town. The canonry was renovated very slowly and the sites kept dilapidating.

Until 1547, Boleslav together with Brandýs were the property of Krajíř dynasty from Krajk, the supporters of Bohemian Brethren.

 

In the 2nd half of the 16th century, the oldest references prevail about Marian’s pilgrimage supported by Jesuits.

 

At the beginning of 17th century, the construction of a new Marian church was started in an early baroque style.

 

During the Thirty Years’ War, Boleslav was seized by Saxon army and palladium was stolen. Later, the palladium was with many obstacles and difficulties bought back by Czech nobility and the ceremonial act of bringing it back in 1638 was visited by Caesar Ferdinand III himself.

 

The development of Boleslav was then settled by Teresian reformation processes according to so called raabisation.

 

In 1820, a stream with mineral water was discovered near the city and it became the essence of Houšťka spa.

 

In 1929, the nation-wide celebrations of St. Wenceslas’ millennium took place – 1000 anniversary since St. Wenceslas’ death.

 

In 1960 the city was united with Brandýs nad Labem. Local citizens insisted on the name being preserved as a part of a new city’s name, and this gave rise to the longest name of the municipality in the Czech Republic.

 

In 2003, the National St. Wenceslas’ fair tradition has been renewed and it makes the biggest official celebration of a bank holiday on 28th September – the Day of Czech Nationhood.

 

In 2009, St. Wenceslas’ basilica was visited, and the divine service for more than 50 000 of believers was then served by the pope Benedict XVI.

 

On top of that, we can find the City Gate there as a remnant of medieval fortification from the beginning of 10th century, or the 2nd half of the 14th century. There are a number of baroque buildings there: Jesuits’ dormitory from the 2nd half of the 17th century, the provostal building from 1728-1734 or last but not least the building of capitular deanery from 1710-1712.

 

 

The roman church of St. Clement is built next to St. Wenceslas’s basilica. It is the oldest remaining building in Stará Boleslav which has been preserved in a nearly unchanged form and it therefore belongs to the oldest church buildings in the whole Bohemia.
The church has obtained its current-day look in the 3rd quarter of the 12th century, but the bases had been built as early as in 11th century on the place of a wooden structure dating presumably in the 10th century. It can be assumed that the church used to be situated close to nowadays nonexistent princely castle because there was a tribune in its west part. The tribune was usually connected by a wooden bridge with a palace or a dwelling of a magnate. It is a single-aisle roman construction with semicircular apse on the east side and with stone portals in the western and northern walls. The space inside the aisle has 7.45 x 4.55 meters.
The church became famous especially for its wall paintings, which were discovered as early as around the year of 1890, partly revealed in years 1899 to 1900 by Dr. E. Šittler and afterwards preserved in 1914 by G. Miksch. They were not touched by later restoration painting. Another act of preservation took place at the beginning of 1960s, when a built-in window and an entrance to a tribune were revealed.

 

St. Wenceslas’s roman basilica is situated on the same place where, as the story goes, St. Wenceslas was murdered by his brother Boleslav I. in 935 (or in 929) and which has become a significant place of pilgrimage.
Basilica was founded together with collegiate canonry in 1039 by a prince Břetislav I as an expression of repentance that was ordered to him by the pope Benedict IX. for his military expedition to Poland from where he had brought remains of St. Adalbert. According to the Kosmas’ Chronicle, the church was christened on 19th May 1046 by Prague’s bishop Šebíř. The original church of St. Cosmas and Damien (in front of its door St. Wenceslas’ was murdered) was included in a new construction. Its ground-plan has been preserved ever since. It used to be one of the biggest pieces of religious architecture in Bohemia of early medieval times.
In the half of 12th century the church was reconstructed. At that time, mainly the five-aisles vault was enlarged towards west. In times of the rule of Charles IV. In the 2nd half of the 14th century, the church was adapted in a gothic style. Only one southern gothic arch with a delicately shaped dado has been preserved since that day. The father of the country Boleslav visited the church several times and started a foundation on sung service by St. Wenceslas’ altar.
The church suffered a lot during Hussite wars, still the divine services were never interrupted. Basic restoration works started in the half of the 15th century. Major reconstruction in renaissance style took place at the end of the 16th century, when both side aisles got new vaults and exterior supporting piers. During the Thirty Years’ War the church suffered another terrible damage. From 1639 to 1640 the Swedish army built its camp in Boleslav. Northern tower was demolished and when the Swedish retreated, the church was set afire.
In 2009 during St. Wenceslas’ celebrations, the capitular church was visited by the pope Benedict XVI., who bowed to the remains of the Czech ancestral prince on the spot of his murder.

 

 

 

 

The pilgrim church of the Assumption of the Virgin in Stará Boleslav was founded at the beginning of the 17th century. It is the oldest Czech Marian pilgrim place and an amorous painting, so called palladium of Bohemia, can be found there.
Today’s church replaced an older gothic construction which was not sufficient for a growing number of pilgrims. It was built according to a plan of an Italian architect Giovanni Maria Filippi and supervised by Jacob de Vaccani between years 1613 and 1625, bearing the style of early baroque Roman churches. Local canonry of St. Cosmas and Damien took credit for its completion, together with substantial support of Caesar Mathew II., his wife Anne and catholic nobility. Abraham Leuthner completed in 1675 its northern tower, southern tower was built according to Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer’s plans in years 1748-1749. It was also him who designed a new front face of the church (1736), the building of capitular canonry which is situated opposite the church and neighbouring chapel of hallowed Podiven. In 1728-1732 the area in front of the basilica was adapted, a terrace was built and cloisters were finished behind the eastern boarder of the church. In 1775, Josef Kramolín made wall paintings there, which show the history of Stará Boleslav’s palladium, its miracles and motives of Virgin Mary’s life. In baroque times, Stará Boleslav became our most significant place of pilgrimage, which was moreover for centuries connected with the personality of St. Wenceslas. Nowadays, diocesan priests take care of the clerical part of the parish.
The most valuable treasure which has been kept for centuries in the basilica is Madonna’s relief called Bohemian palladium. It is a metal relief from the half of the 15th century. In Christian tradition, its fate is linked to St. Ludmila and St. Wenceslas.
In front of the castle, in the place of an ancient well, the statue of Christ the King was imbedded in 1935. In niches of western front face there are figures of Czech municipal patrons: St. John Nepomucký, hallowed Podiven, St. Wenceslas, St. Ludmila, St. Vojtěch and St. Prokop. All of them hold palladium in their hands. The church commands baroque basilicas with one lengthwise aisle with annular vault with groynes and three pairs of side shrines.

The equipment of the church is primarily from 17th and 18th centuries. The imposing main altar was made in 1723 in accordance with František Maxmilián Kaňka’s plan and it is one of the best baroques altars. Statues representing the drama of the Virgin’s assumption come from the works of Mathew B. Braun. Statues of St. Wenceslas and St. Ludmila stand at the shoes of columns. A baroque pulpit was built in 1743, the altar at the opposite corner from 1744 is christened to St. John Nepomucký.